Comme des Garçons (translated as “Like Boys”), founded in 1969 by Rei Kawakubo, transformed itself from stall in a small Japanese fashion store into a world-renowned brand. Widely recognized for its avant-garde aesthetics and unorthodox approach to fashion, the label has seen that the industry has become a canvas for experimentation. Let’s take a closer look at its fascinating journey there: from Tokyo to worldwide phenomenon.
The Birth of Comme des Garçons (1969–1973)
Comme des Garçons was founded in 1969 by the Tokyo-born designer Rei Kawakubo, who studied fine arts and literature. Kawakubo didn’t have any structured fashion experience, so she went with her gut to make designs that went against the traditional ideas of beauty. In 1973, she formally incorporated her brand, paving the way for a new chapter in Japanese fashion.
Early Success in Japan (1973–1980)
In the 1970s, Comme des Garçons started to be noticed in Japan with their creative and monochromatic deconstructed clothing. The label eschewed conventional feminine silhouettes in favor of asymmetry, oversized proportions and raw edges. These features distinguished it from mainstream fashion and struck a chord with a burgeoning audience hungry for the unusual.
Paris Debut and Global Recognition (1981)
Comme des Garçons showed at Paris Fashion Week for the first time in 1981, shocking Western audiences with its dark, distressed and almost dystopian sensibility. The “Hiroshima Chic” collection, with its tattered fabrics and somber color palette, upended the ideals of Western beauty. The critics were split but the show secured Comme des Garçons’ position as a revolutionary force in fashion.
The Rise of the Comme des Garçons Aesthetic (1980s-1990s)
In the 1980s and 1990s, Kawakubo experimented further with structure, asymmetry and abstract silhouettes. She worked with artists, photographers and designers, further establishing the brand’s identity.
The key highlights from this period are as follows:
The creation of Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, the brand’s avant-garde men’s line.
The launch of Play Comme des Garçons, a laid-back sub-label that would popularize the now-iconic heart.
Expansion in accessories, fragrances and concept stores internationally.
Innovations and Collaborations (2000s-Present)
Come des Garçons became a by-word for innovation, welcoming collaborations with everyone from Nike, Converse and Supreme. Such collaborations enabled the brand to tap into new consumer bases without compromising its aesthetic ethos. The brand also founded Dover Street Market, an avant-garde retail space that transformed luxury shopping.
Some notable collaborations include:
> Comme des Garçons x Louis Vuitton (2008)
Comme des Garçons x Nike Air Force 1 (2017)
Comme des Garçons x Supreme (in progress)
The Legacy of Rei Kawakubo
Rei Kawakubo is one of fashion’s most influential designers, known for her forward-thinking, anti-establishment ethos. In 2017 she became only the second living designer to be honored with a solo exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, a recognition of her influence on contemporary fashion.
Conclusion
For more than five decades, Comme des Garçons has ignored the rules of fashion, establishing itself as one of the most influential brands in the industry. From its early days in Tokyo to worldwide acclaim, the brand is always evolving, developing new perspectives, and subverting the status quo of fashion.
FAQs
What does Comme des Garçons translate to? “Comme des Garçons” means “Like Boys” in French, which reflects the brand’s gender-neutrality in fashion.
Who is Rei Kawakubo? Rei Kawakubo, Comme des Garçons founder and designer
What is the best Comme des Garçons collection? The 1981 Paris debut — derisively dubbed “Hiroshima Chic” — is considered one of the brand’s most iconic collections because of its radical break with the conventions of the time.
Why is Comme des Garçons so pricey? They specialize in the best materials, forward-thinking approaches and limited release cycles, pushing their price point up and the exclusivity of their products.
Where to buy Comme des Garçons? Where to buyComme des Garçons is available at flagship shops, Dover Street Market locations, luxury department stores and select online sites.
